“Little Jamaica” the real experience of Costa Rica

BY SIMONE J. SMITH

It felt like Jamaica! It looked like Jamaica! It sounded like Jamaica, but I know for certain that my plane ticket said Costa Rica. Now, I knew I was in Costa Rica, but this is the only way to describe what I felt when I drove down the shoreline through a city called Limón, which borders Nicaragua and Panama. As my friends and I drove down the 125 miles that stretch out along the Caribbean coast, I gazed at the white sand beaches (you know the ones that you see on postcards), and thought to myself, this has got to be the most hidden and underappreciated attraction ever.

Costa Rica as a whole is a beautiful country; it is very similar to the Caribbean, which is why when you hear the story I am about to tell you, it will all make sense. The Caribbean coast of Costa Rica is not at all how you would imagine; everything is different: the city, the history, the roads, the energy, and most noticeably, the people. Over 50% of the region’s inhabitants come from the Caribbean island of Jamaica. Yes Jamaicans; for some reason you found your way there, and it is a great memoir.

In 1869, a project commenced that changed the map of Costa Rica forever. A railroad was going to be built that stretched across the jungles of Costa Rica and would link San Jose to its main eastern port at Limon. The goal was to make the transportation of coffee (Costa Rica’s principal export) more effective, which would of course make it more profitable. The only issue was; everything was going wrong. From the very beginning of the project, nothing was going well. Poor planning, bankruptcies, fraud, bribery, political interventions, earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, rainstorms, mudslides, bridge collapse, road washouts; many are surprised that this project even worked out (Schulman, 2017).

The local Costa Ricans wanted nothing to do with the project; I don’t blame them. When they heard about workers dying from: malaria, yellow fever, dysentery (diarrhea with blood in it), plus the poisonous snakes. Workers died by the thousands; the American builders brought in workers from everywhere: China, Italy, Belgium and even America. Interesting story behind the American workers; according to an article written by Bob Schulman, “ Little Jamaica Rocks on the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica” he tells the story of a deal being made with some New Orleans politicians to sign up some local trouble makers and in 1873, they shipped 500 of them to Costa Rica to work on the railroad. As the story tells it, only 25 made it back alive. When it seemed like all was lost for this project, they came across an island called Jamaica, and it changed the course of the project. The Jamaican workers were the only ones who were able to survive the rainforest, and the hot conditions. They strategically worked together and 21 years later the first train rolled out.

At the end of construction (which was around 1890), many of the Jamaican workers decided they wanted to remain in Costa Rica. They set up fishing communities, and established a settlement. Many of the natives that I met spoke Patois, and they all seemed very laid back; I have to admit, it did feel very reminiscent of a life I knew. Just like in Jamaica, the temperature is extra warm; I liked the fact that activities, lodging and pretty much everything was cheaper on this part of the island. The community of people are very warm, and they enjoy showing you the beauty of their coastline.

If you are looking for mega-resort or hotel chains, this is not the place to go, but if you are looking for boutique hotels, bed & breakfast, or other funky places to stay, this is definitely the part of Costa Rica you need to visit. If you still want that bougee-stoush lifestyle, you can stay at this chic boutique hotel called Le Cameleon. They have 35 white rooms, and what makes them unique is that they change the cushions in your room everyday, so it is like walking into a whole new room each time. Breakfast is included and I believe that free yoga classes are part of the deal as well.

I didn’t have a lot of time there, so I missed the chance to visit Tortugero, where I hear that there are reptiles, birds, and amphibians that you can’t find anywhere else in the country. I saw my very first sloth, and they are not the most attractive animals, yet they have a beauty because they are God’s creatures, and they exist peacefully in such a magnificent place.

I wanted to share this with the community because we should know that our Caribbean branches stretch across the world. The Caribbean diaspora touches every part of this planet and we must stand proud in who and what we are; a great people. To learn more about Costa Rica, visit them at visitcostarica.com, and if you get a chance, visit a little home away from home in Limón.

References

• Schulman, B. (2017). Little Jamaica’ Rocks on the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica. Retrieved from  (https://www.huffpost.com/entry/little-jamaica-rocks-on-t_b_8100114)
• Harwell, A. (2014). 5 Reasons to visit Costa Rica’s Caribbean Side. Retrieved from: https://www.travelandleisure.com/local-experts/costa-rica/5-reasons-visit-costa-ricas-caribbean-side